Month: September 2008

How to slaughter a carabao

Slaughter of carabao

 

  1. Bathe the animal all over to remove adhering dirts.
  2. Tie the animal to a post or a ring in the floor.
  3. Stun the animal. Stunning may be done by hitting at the intersection of two diagonal lines connecting the eyes and the bases of the horns with a sledge hammer or captive bolt. If a matador is used it is done in the intersection of a line midway between the horns and line joining the midpoint of the ears. After stunning, severe the point over the brisket toward the jaw then insert the sticking knife in front of the brisket at a 40 degrees angle. Severe the jugular vein and carotid arteries for a thorough bleeding. To collect the blood easily , form a pouch over the skin o the brisket where incision is made.
  4. After bleeding, shackle the animal and lift it by a mechanical hoist to a skinning cradle where the skin is partially flayed. Remove the feet and cut the breast into halves.
  5. From the skinning cradle, transfer the carcass to the meat rail where flaying is completed and the head is cut at the atlantooccipital  joint.
  6. To remove the visceral organs, cut through the pelvic bone to the region of the breast bone. An ax maybe used in cutting. Avoid puncturing the intestine and the stomach.
  7. Separate the edible from the inedible parts of the entrails. The viscera are inspected on the tripe stand after the contents are removed. Offals are placed in a buggy and taken to the tripery for cleaning, preparation and dispatching.
  8. Split the carcass by cutting through the middle vertebral column. Wash and trim thoroughly the carcass. Hang the carcass on the hanging rail to drip.
  9. Quarter the carcass on the side between the last two ribs.
  10. Weigh brand the carcass and have a meat inspection certificate issued for dispatching.
  11. If the carcass isnot for immediate disposal, chill overnight at a temperature of about 2 to 4 degrees Celsius.

Source: Phil Recommends for carabao production, 1978

Red Dye from Sibukaw


Red Dye from Sibukaw

 

Extracting dye for a 400 grams cloth:

 

1. Soak ground or wood shavings in water at a ratio of 1 kilo wood shavings for every 40 liters of water and boil for five hours.

2. Strain, then boil again until it thickens and dries.

3. Scrape the dried residue and pulverize about 120 grams

 

Mordanting

1. Heat the cloth to be dyed with 3% mordants: 12 g potassium dichromate or oxalic acid in 12 liters water at 60° C for half an hour.

2. Let to cool and wrap.

 

Dyeing

1. Boil the cloth in 30% dye mixture (1 part dye in 30 parts water). 120 g sibukaw powder dye mixed to 12 liters water 4 g sodium carbonate (1%), and 20 g sodium bisulfate (5%)

2. Stir constantly to get an even colored cloth.

3. Let it cool, squeeze, then wash well. (Use 20% teepol; 20 g teepol in 100 cc water)

4. Rinse well and dry.

 

Philippine Textile

Research Institute

(E. Fernandez, 1995)

Tekno Tulong

 

Dyes from Philippine Plants

Dyes from Philippine Plants

Dyeing using different plants has been a traditional practice. However, with the invention of
artificial dyes and modern dyeing practices, such use of dyes from plants was soon
abandoned.
There are many Philippine plants which are good source of dyes — either bark or wood.
There are plants which are naturally rich in tannic acid or tannin which is used in dyeing
leather, wood or textile, such as: kamachili, bakauan, red white lauan, tangal, ipil-ipil, coconut
husk and others. The common procedure of extracting dyes is as follows:
1. Boil the ground or chopped bark in uncovered cooking pot with just enough water to cover
the barks.
2. Boil to 60° C-80° C with with continuous stirring.
3. After an hour, strain in wire screen and replace water in the cooking pot.
Repeat 1-3 until water becomes pale in color.
4. The water used in second or third boiling could be used for the next fresh barks.
5. Mix all the water used for boiling and boil them altogether until you get a dark colored dye.

Source:Selected R&D Projects (Completed) NSDB
Tukno Tulong

Nursery Plant Pots from Coconut Coir

Nursery Plant Pots from Coconut Coir

Plants grow faster in pots made of coconut husk with coconut dust than in soil. For example,
nursery plants like:
1. Asparagus springerie – grown in coconut husk with equal amounts of dust and swine
marine had more cuttings than those planted in rice field with swine manure.
2. Anthurium – more flowers per plant.
3. Dracaena fragrans (leafy plant) – increased roots
4. Mussaendes – longer roots (with spagnum moss and coconut) during marcotting.
5. Amherstia nobilis – faster marcotting even without the use of growth hormones.
PCARRD
Balitang Pambukid
May 1987

Tekno Tulong