Eyebuds as planting materials

Eyebuds as planting materials
Thea Kristina Pabuayon 

October 1999 Special Issue, BAR Digest

Abaca is traditionally planted using suckers or corms. The use of seeds, although appropriate in breeding activities, is not practiced by farmers because abaca grown from seeds takes longer time to mature and to attain harvestable size. Furthermore, resulting plants may not possess the desired characteristics of the parents or are not “true to type” because abaca is highly cross-pollinated. There is also difficulty in germinating the seeds as well as taking care of the seedlings in the field.

This was revealed in a Terminal Report of FIDA Region VIII entitled “Germination and Growth of Eyebuds as Affected by Size and Depth of Planting,” which was authored by Porfirio B. Tafalla, Victor A. Romero and Agapito E. Cagabhion.

Tissue culture can mass-produce disease-free planting materials from a single parent material but requires much capital, sophisticated equipment and expertise. This method cannot be practiced by ordinary farmers in their respective localities.

The use of corms and suckers is simple and results in high germination and survival but these materials are bulky and costly in terms of labor and transport especially if the source is far from the planting site. Dividing the corms into seedpieces with two eyebuds each multiplies available planting materials from a single corm three or four times. Further dividing the corms into individual eyebuds was studied by Tafalla, et al. in 1992. It was found out that eyebuds are equally appropriate planting materials as seedpieces. They have similar germination and survival rate as seedpieces and have the advantage of being less bulky thereby reducing hauling and freight costs. More planting materials can be derived from each corm since eyebud is a planting material. Unlike in tissue culture, eyebud preparation is simple and can be easily adopted by farmers in their respective farms.

Steps in Eyebud Preparation and Field Planting:

  • Select harvestable stalks that are easy to tumble down. Before tumbling down, remove the leaves with the use of a topping knife to avoid or minimize damage to nearby plants.
  • Tumble down plants by pulling the stalks from side to side to loosen the roots. Plants with deeply embedded corms and roots are sources of eyebuds.
  • Separate the corms from the stalks with the use of a sharp bolo. Pile the corms in a convenient place. Pile the stalks separately for tuxying later.
  • Divide the corms into pieces measuring 5 cm x 5 cm to 7 cm x 7 cm. Each piece should have one prominent eye bud.
  • Pile prepared eyebud in a shady place to avoid desiccation. Observe care in hauling and transporting eyebuds to avoid damage to the growing points.
  • Prepare the land in the same way when corms or suckers are used. It should be done before the eyebuds are prepared. Plant theeyebuds within 1 week after preparation ensure high germination.
  • Planting should be timed at the onset of the rainy season to ensure high germination and survival. Planting distance is 1m x 1m for nurseries and from 2m x 2m to 3m x 3m for planation depending on the size of the variety to be planted. Depth of planting is 2-6 cm and the eyebuds positioned with the growing tips pointing upward.
  • All other activities like provision of shade trees, underbrushing, ringweeding, fertilizer application, etc are the same as in plants derived from corms, suckers, or seedpieces. Upon maturity, first harvest and succeeding harvests are the same as those planted using corms and seedpieces.

 

How to slaughter a carabao

Slaughter of carabao

 

  1. Bathe the animal all over to remove adhering dirts.
  2. Tie the animal to a post or a ring in the floor.
  3. Stun the animal. Stunning may be done by hitting at the intersection of two diagonal lines connecting the eyes and the bases of the horns with a sledge hammer or captive bolt. If a matador is used it is done in the intersection of a line midway between the horns and line joining the midpoint of the ears. After stunning, severe the point over the brisket toward the jaw then insert the sticking knife in front of the brisket at a 40 degrees angle. Severe the jugular vein and carotid arteries for a thorough bleeding. To collect the blood easily , form a pouch over the skin o the brisket where incision is made.
  4. After bleeding, shackle the animal and lift it by a mechanical hoist to a skinning cradle where the skin is partially flayed. Remove the feet and cut the breast into halves.
  5. From the skinning cradle, transfer the carcass to the meat rail where flaying is completed and the head is cut at the atlantooccipital  joint.
  6. To remove the visceral organs, cut through the pelvic bone to the region of the breast bone. An ax maybe used in cutting. Avoid puncturing the intestine and the stomach.
  7. Separate the edible from the inedible parts of the entrails. The viscera are inspected on the tripe stand after the contents are removed. Offals are placed in a buggy and taken to the tripery for cleaning, preparation and dispatching.
  8. Split the carcass by cutting through the middle vertebral column. Wash and trim thoroughly the carcass. Hang the carcass on the hanging rail to drip.
  9. Quarter the carcass on the side between the last two ribs.
  10. Weigh brand the carcass and have a meat inspection certificate issued for dispatching.
  11. If the carcass isnot for immediate disposal, chill overnight at a temperature of about 2 to 4 degrees Celsius.

Source: Phil Recommends for carabao production, 1978

Red Dye from Sibukaw


Red Dye from Sibukaw

 

Extracting dye for a 400 grams cloth:

 

1. Soak ground or wood shavings in water at a ratio of 1 kilo wood shavings for every 40 liters of water and boil for five hours.

2. Strain, then boil again until it thickens and dries.

3. Scrape the dried residue and pulverize about 120 grams

 

Mordanting

1. Heat the cloth to be dyed with 3% mordants: 12 g potassium dichromate or oxalic acid in 12 liters water at 60° C for half an hour.

2. Let to cool and wrap.

 

Dyeing

1. Boil the cloth in 30% dye mixture (1 part dye in 30 parts water). 120 g sibukaw powder dye mixed to 12 liters water 4 g sodium carbonate (1%), and 20 g sodium bisulfate (5%)

2. Stir constantly to get an even colored cloth.

3. Let it cool, squeeze, then wash well. (Use 20% teepol; 20 g teepol in 100 cc water)

4. Rinse well and dry.

 

Philippine Textile

Research Institute

(E. Fernandez, 1995)

Tekno Tulong

 

Dyes from Philippine Plants

Dyes from Philippine Plants

Dyeing using different plants has been a traditional practice. However, with the invention of
artificial dyes and modern dyeing practices, such use of dyes from plants was soon
abandoned.
There are many Philippine plants which are good source of dyes — either bark or wood.
There are plants which are naturally rich in tannic acid or tannin which is used in dyeing
leather, wood or textile, such as: kamachili, bakauan, red white lauan, tangal, ipil-ipil, coconut
husk and others. The common procedure of extracting dyes is as follows:
1. Boil the ground or chopped bark in uncovered cooking pot with just enough water to cover
the barks.
2. Boil to 60° C-80° C with with continuous stirring.
3. After an hour, strain in wire screen and replace water in the cooking pot.
Repeat 1-3 until water becomes pale in color.
4. The water used in second or third boiling could be used for the next fresh barks.
5. Mix all the water used for boiling and boil them altogether until you get a dark colored dye.

Source:Selected R&D Projects (Completed) NSDB
Tukno Tulong