Raising Quails Part 2

Raising Quails Part 2

By: Gemma C. Delmo

The New South Wales Food Authority (NSW) is recommending the following for a suitable quail cage:

For cage contrition , a 7 millimeter welded wire mesh is recommended to provide secure footing, prevent leg injuries and prevent chicks from escaping through side walls. A 13 x 20 centimeter pen is large enough to house at least two birds. The cage should have a solid metal or plywood roof to minimize head injuries should the birds fly.

Adult quail will live and produce abundantly if they are allowed to move at 145 square centimeters of floor space per bird (125 centimeter square per bird on wire floors).

Adult quail need 1.25 to 2.5 cm of feeder space per bird. Feed should not exceed from the allotted space to avert wastage. Cut a 1″ inch mesh-welded wire and lay it on the feeder as a cover to prevent spilage.

Clean, fresh water should be provided at all times with a minimu of 0.6 cm of trough space per quail. One nipple or cup should be provided for every 5 birds.

The BAI also recommends building small cages (2 feet x 4 feet x x 1 foot) with four levels with a distance each of 3 to 4 in cages. Hence, quails can be safely kept on the roofs, basement or in the attic.

It is best to provide more space for birds to reduce or eliminate odor problems.

Feed management and nutrition

Through chicken feeds can be fed to quails, it is not always advisable. According to the LDC, protein requirements of chicken and quails are different, thus improper feeding can greatly affect the quails performance and productivity.

The LDC  says that pugo cannot survive on chicken feeds for a long time and if ever they will survive, the mortality rate will be very high that can reach up to 70% from day old to 45 days. Moreover, the growth of the birds is very uneven and the survivors will not be efficient layers.

Thus, NSW suggests that quails in their firs six weeks should be fed with crumbles containing 25-28% protein and  1% calcium for the first six weeks. The dietary requirement  for maturing quails should contain 24-26% protein and high phosphorous and calcium. Adding limestone in starter rations or mash is advised for resilient egg shells.  For more information consult your nearest agricultural office or veterinary area.

Feed supply should be available 24 hours daily.

The freshness of feed is very important and should be stored in well-covered containers with tight lids kept in clean, dry and cool area free from pests and other microbes. Feed stored longer than eight weeks is prone to vitamin deterioration and rancidity. You can concoct your own feed premixes for a cutback on your feed expenses. Consult your feed supplier or an expert for the preparations.

In the absence of feeds, quails can be fed with insects, grains and various other seeds.

Brooding and care of the young quails

The Michigan State University cites the following pointers on caring for the young:

Never allow the young to get cold.

The brooder temperature should be maintained at 34 degrees Celsius

The temperature of 34 degrees Celsius should be maintained continuously in the brooder for the first week; after that the temperature can be decreased by 5 degrees every until the fourth week.

A regular light bulb (50-60 watts0 infrared bulb or any other heating unit canbe used as a heat source. For small-scale operations, a light bulb will provide both heat and light. It is necessary to keep a thermometer to regularly check the temperature. But if you don’t have one, wathc the behavior of the chicks for a while to determine whether they are too cold , too hot or just right. If the the temperature is too cold, they will huddle together under the heat source; if it is too hot , they will walk away fromt heheat source.

Quail geared for early maturity and better egg production should be given a 24-hour period of daylight for the firs four weeks using an  incandescent light bulb.

Placing a sheet of paper under the cage floor will make cleaning easier. However, never use a smooth paper since it is slippery that can injure the birds. Use newspaper, towel paper or similar material.

Use ventilation for the young. This also goes for the adults.

A balanced ration high in protein should be given to the chicks. TO prevent feed spillage, float a wire mesh on top of the feeder for the first few days.

Always keep plenty of fresh water in a waterer inside the brooder. Take safety measures to prevent chicks from drowning. Placing a wire mesh (half inch size) cut in donut shape on tip of the waterer prevents chicks from falling and getting drowned. tHe cup of the waterer should be filled with disinfected or sanitized marbles or pebbles to keep the water down.

Clean the waterer, check the feeder and change the litter. Remove the litter daily to avoid odor problems.

At the end of the fourth week, transfer the chicks to the floor or cages.

De-beak the chick to prevent cannibalism. Use a nail clipper to remove the tip of the beak of the pugo chick when about 2 weeks of age.

Lighting

Pugo requires 14 to18 hours of light per day to assure maximum egg production. Male quails or any quails grown for meat intake can be given 8 hours of low-intensity light per day. This lighting discourages birds to engage in activities such as fighting and mating, thus, making them fatter.

 

Breeding management

Quails that lay eggs early should be separated and be used as breeder while those which lay eggs the very last (or tabhle egg layers) should be increased for egg production.

According to BAI, if female quails do not respond to the males’ “mating call” which is usually based on its hoarse and shaky voice, this signifies that they are not happy or satisfied with their mates. It is therefore important to take note of the males’ capacity to co-produce to expand the brood. The usual population ratio is 70 female against 30 males. To make sure that you have the sufficient number of quails, check your birds. If female quails have feathers on the back, it is certain that there are enough males; if there are few males, the females will fight. However, there are situations that female quails do not fight evenif there isn’t a single male. This is proven with table egg layers where it is separated and taken care of without a male.

The extra custody in picking quails as they panic easily and struggle when caught.  Excessive handling can hurt or even kill them. If laying quails are transferred. Expect a gap in production for about 2 to 3 weeks as they are in the adjustment period. Avoid introducing new breeds (for example, putting a Japanese seattle toa negro group) into an establish group.

 

Pre-incubation egg care

Success in quails starts with good pre-incubation stage. MSU enumerates the following steps to take care of eggs prior to incubation:

Collect eggs 2 to 3 times a day if birds are raised in colony cages or on the floor to prevent egg shells from cracking.

Handle eggs very carefully, quail eggs are thinner than chicken eggs.

Eggs stored prior to incubation should be kept in cool place at approximately 13 degrees centigrade and about 70% humidity.

Do not hold eggs more than 7 days prior to incubation, as hatchability will be reduced considerably after that.

If eggs have to be stored for a considerable time, cover them with polyethylene plastic bag to help prevent drying of egg content.

Fumigate the eggs after they are collected within 12 hours after they being placed in the fumigator . Do not fumigate eggs that are 2 to 5 days old.

Source: Marid Agribusiness January 2007

For the latest agricultural trends please buy MARID Agribusiness digest available in National Bookstore nationwide.

Raising Quails Part 1

Raising Quails Part 1

By: Gemma C. Delmo

A native of Europe and Asia, the Pugo (Coturnix coturnix) has been one of the early cultivated birds during the ancient times particularly in the Far East. Remarkable for its breeding capacity and egg production, quails are also disease-resistant and easy to grow since they do not require a large area. A simple cage and a little equipment are enough to raise a significant number of quails that can be an ideal source of livelihood and food for small families.

Quail meat is popular in Europe while its eggs are a favorite fare among Asians. In Japan and most parts of Asia, quail eggs are variedly sold-fresh,  packed, shelled, canned or boxed. On the other hand, charcoaled-cooked quail meat is much-love cuisine among the Spanish, French, Italians and Americans.

In global standards, the smaller quails are used for egg production while the bigger ones are culled for meat. Ideal weight to cull quail should reach 100 grams. On the other hand, mottled brown eggs are considered to be of the best quality since it is easier to candle (The process of checking eggs under the candle or nay flickering light to confirm its interior quality before they hatch), a delectable entrée and a quality ingredient in making cakes, mayonnaise and many others. A fine quail egg weight 10 grams.

In the Philippines, quails are becoming increasingly popular due to its inexpensive production cost and easy raising methods. Since there is not much difference in growing  quails abroad, Filipinos have already adapted the new techniques from the West. Quail meat is now being consumed by more Filipinos as it is perceived to be more nutritious than chicken because of its low cholesterol and fat content.  Quail eggs are prepared in different delicacies and are now a major ingredient in making breads, leche flan and other pastries.

The strains of local quails came from the original breed called  “Old world quail” which originated from Europe and transferred from one place to another which spawned diverse quail species world wide. But the most commercially raised specie is the coturnix or literally known as “quail of commerce” due to its tastier meat and quality eggs as compared to other varieties.

Pugo are proven to be more productive when cultured in areas with temperature ranging from 31 to 35 degrees centigrade. This makes the Philippines an ideal growing site. The Bureau of Animal industry has identified the following pugo commonly raised in our country:

Native – this can be found in forests or in the woods . This is the common quail and not suitable for commercial raising.

Japanese Taiwan – also known as the Chinese quail. Its feathers are brown with specks of white and gray. Female quails have tan-colored throats and breast while the mature males have reddish brown breasts and throats.

Japanese Seatlle – This strain came from America and is similar to the Japanese Taiwan which alsohas rusty to reddish brown breasts.

Negro- ash black to black in color

Tuxedo- black and white spot on the breast

Silver- a combination of black and white in the eye area andbelieved to have come from the Canaan valley of Egypt.

The BAI recommends all quails except the native and Japanese Taiwan. The Japanese Taiwan is popularly bred in the Philippines but the eggs are small compared to other quails. This breed is also not a good egg producer and is disease-prone. Beginners are advised to start with the Japanese Seattle because it is a prolific egg layer and its male breeds can be easily identified 30 days after it has hatched. In this way. A raiser can save on his deeds because male quails can be separated and can be sold as a “small broiler” for meat consumption.

Expert advice to buy quality breeds from a trusted quail raiser (consult the bureau of Animal industry, livestock development council and from MARID agribusiness digest). As of September 2006, chicks can be bought for as low as 6.00pesos each to as high as 25 for a 30-day old pullets.

Properly reared female quails can produce 200 to 300 eggs in a year beginning from their sixth week and good nourishment can develop the females fertility for another year. Quails eggs are priced at 0.75 pesos. On the other hand, quail meat can be sold to as much as 100 pesos per kilo.

Size of flock

Since quails expand rapidly, a beginner can start with 1,000 30 day old pullets for an ample egg and meat production. Initial investment can start from 30,000 up to 100,000 for a large scale production.

Housing

Raising quails is similar to chicken rearing but will only occupy a small area. Quail cages- though small and usually located in garages- should be well ventilated and be protected from temperature disturbances such as extreme heat or chilly season. It should also be protected from predatory animals such as birds, rodents and cats. Quails should not be let loose as they don’t have a homing instinct and will get lost if they are released. It is therefore important to build cages or houses for the quails.

If the birds are raised for hobby, they can be raised on the floors but if they are for eggs or meat, the should be in cages. According to the Michigan State university cooperative extension, there are three cages built for quails:Pedigree cages measuring  5″x 8″ x10″ can hold a pair of quail while the colony cages of 2 ft x 2 ft x 10 inches will hold to 25 adult quails while  a 2 ft x 4 ft x10 inches can house 50 adult.

Source: Marid Agribusiness December 2006

For the latest agricultural trends please buy Marid Agribusiness digest available in National Bookstore nationwide.

The Independent Hatch

The Independent Hatch

Pangasinan, known for its yearly delight of varieties of bangus, holds another niche for small time backyard farmers.

By Hans Audric B. Estialbo

“The secrets to our salted eggs are strictly confidential,” says AKCE Marketing owner Alex Estialbo, one of the only independent salted egg raisers and sellers in Pangasinan, “I guess normal naman ‘yun at understandable for other businessmen to give out the ingredients to their business di ba?”

Alex, at 40, looks too quiet, if not secretive, for a businessman. He says he stumbled upon the potential of the salted egg business in a casual fashion. He was working for his brother who owned a full-sized bakery, also in Pangasinan, for over a year; and after some time, felt the urge to venture to another line of commerce. After leaving the life of making sweets, pastries and cakes, and swinging from one gig to another to make a decent buck, he stopped and deemed the promise of turning soil to investment.

The perfect spot to jumpstart the business was the backyard. Their modest residence hid a spacious backyard where two more houses could be built. And the brainchild instantly materialized.

As everyone knows, egg is one of the poultry products that cannot be stored for a long time. It made him think of how he could solve this problem, especially when the production is big and the prices are low. With simple processing and cheap materials, the salted eggs proved to be a great demand and can be stored longer. But first things first – how exactly are salted eggs made? He replied, “The basic takes 90 minutes to finish. Make available a basket of eggs about 50 and select 20 eggs that are not cracked or damaged. Clean and scour the eggs with sand paper, preferably no. 0. Weigh 500 grams of salt and 1000 grams of brick powder. Mix the brick powder and salt in a bowl and add ¾ glass pure water/tanned water until it becomes a batter.

“Cover the egg uniformly with 1 cm of the batter around the egg. Store the eggs covered with paste in the box with stacks and place it in right upward position in a safer place.”

It’s a must as well to check them twice. Eggs to be salted must not be cracked, rotten, containing embryo, must still be fresh and uncooked. Alex continued, “Some simple methods to select good eggs include electric candling as well as candling using a rolled up paper. By candling it is possible to see whether the eggs are still fresh or not. If the air space is big, the egg is old; if the air space is small the egg is fresh. Besides this a fresh egg has also a viscose albumen and a yolk that has not a visible image when candling, and even it is visible the yolk will not move when you shake the egg. If the egg is a hatched egg you can see blood vessels. An egg with blood vessels or blood spots won’t be suitable.”

For safe keeping, he suggests that on the storage of the eggs during 15-20 days, ratio of salt to brick powder should be 1:3. So for 10 eggs 200 grams of salt and 600 grams of brick powder are needed. In fact, the result is better if eggs are stored longer. If you prefer the color of the yolk to be yellow, use dark tanned water, which is very good as tea contains preservation chemical tannin. When making a lot of salted eggs, one can use more liquid batter of salt and clay and put the eggs inside this batter, which will accelerate the process of salting. Instead of brick powder, also acid loam and scouring sand (fine ash) can be used. The taste of the really depends on the length of time the eggs are stored and the amount of salt and brick powder used.

AKCE, a name he patterned from his two children’s names: Allister Kaye and Allison Kim C. Estialbo, makes 10,000 to 15,000 eggs in a month, which they also deliver themselves to the stores they now call their sukis, which they sell at P8.50 each. The remaining eggs, if there will be any left, are left to his other helpers to sell themselves in the nearby market at P6.50 a piece.

“With a small investment, all that anybody needs actually is just perseverance. It’s better for smalltime businessmen like me to do the work and oversee everything. By doing so, I pick up firsthand experience and information. At ‘dun ko natututunan ‘yung mga sikreto ng good businesses,” said Alex. Smalltime backyard farmers and entrepreneurs like him play good examples to those who want to be their own line of specialty.

source:Marid Agribusiness, July 2007

Raising Tilapia in Your Backyard-Part 2

Raising Tilapia in Your Backyard

The Davao-based Mindanao Baptist Rural Life Center Foundation gives these timely and relevant tips on growing tilapia.

By: Henrylito D. Tacio

 

Stocking the pondBefore stocking the pond with tilapia, be sure to drain it thoroughly and remove the weeds and unwanted fish that may be present. Allow your pond to dry up until it cracks before refilling with fresh, clean water. Fertilize the pond one week before stocking.Stock the pond either early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the water temperature is low in order to avoid weakening of the fish. Allow the water in the pond to mix gradually with the water in the fish container before putting the fish into the pond.Care and maintenance

  •          Feed daily during morning and afternoon at one portion of the pond. Supplement feeds with fine rice bran, bread crumbs, earthworms, termites and others at an initial rate of 5% of the total body weight of the fish.
  •          Maintain the natural fish food by adding more fertilizer. Place chicken droppings in sacks and suspend in the water at every corner of the pond. Put 2.5 kg of chicken manure per bag.
  •          Maintain a water level depth of 1-1.5 meters. Gradually remove excess fingerlings after the third month of stocking. Retain six fingerlings per square meter. (As another source of income, you can sell those excess fingerlings to other farmers in the area.)
  •          Plant “kangkong” and “gabi” at one portion to provide shade for the fish during hot weather and to serve as growing media for natural fish food. Water lily also provides shade. However, do not totally cover the pond with plants as this will interfere with the natural food production process.
  •          Prevent seepages and leakages by patching them with mud. Clear the pond dikes of weeds.
  •          Check the gates occasionally to prevent entry of other fish species and avoid loss of stock. If your home lot is easily flooded, place stones around the top of dikes to prevent the escape of fish if the water overflows.
  •          Find ways to keep the mudfish (“haluan”) out of your tilapia pond. The mudfish is a ferocious predator of tilapia fingerlings and even larger fish.
  •          Plant more trees within the sources of water to maintain the flow. Protect the riverbeds from toxic waste water and pesticides and avoid dumping of garbage.
  •          Plant trees and grasses near the dike to avoid erosion.

HarvestingYou can harvest tilapia by using dip net or a lift net. Lower the net down to the bottom of the pond and spread a small amount of feed on the water just above the net. Lift the net as fast as possible to prevent the escape of the tilapia. After harvesting, stock the pond again.Integrated farmingResearch at the MBRLC shows that you can make your fishpond more productive and profitable by raising a pig at the site of the pond. Pig wastes go directly to the pond and help to fertilize the tiny plants that serve as the tilapia’s main food. Tests have proven that tilapia cultured in this kind of pond can be eaten without any harmful effect. Many farmers in Mindanao have already adopted this technology in their own fishponds.Uses of tilapiaTilapia is a good quality food and has a firm and delicious flesh. Unlike milkfish (“bangus”), it has few fine bones.Tilapia is suitable also for processing into dried, salted-dried, smoked or pickled products. It is a good insect and worm predator and is known to help clean many injurious insects from ponds. To certain extent, tilapia can help in keeping down the number of mosquito larvae, thus preventing them from developing into troublesome and harmful mosquitoes. source:Marid agribusiness, July 2007